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Would this be appropriate for a Collectors Club free submission? 1880 Shield Nickel

I've got a few coins that I want to get graded or authenticated for the purpose of selling (father-in-law's collection).
I notice that the Collectors Club freebies are for the "Regular" service (coins valued at <$3k)
According to the price guide, this 1880 Shield Nickel would be worth over $3k only if it graded VF or better.
With the dent between 8 and 9 o'clock on the obverse, I'm not even sure that this coin will get anything other than an "authentic" designation.
So, my question is, can I submit this as one of my freebies, or do I need to spend the extra for the Express service?
Or, is this coin rare enough to require the "RARITIES" service level?
I notice that the Collectors Club freebies are for the "Regular" service (coins valued at <$3k)
According to the price guide, this 1880 Shield Nickel would be worth over $3k only if it graded VF or better.
With the dent between 8 and 9 o'clock on the obverse, I'm not even sure that this coin will get anything other than an "authentic" designation.
So, my question is, can I submit this as one of my freebies, or do I need to spend the extra for the Express service?
Or, is this coin rare enough to require the "RARITIES" service level?

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Comments
I've had Walkers grade MS-67 using Economy service, and they have yet to charge me extra
It is a good coin for a Sunday bourse.
<< <i>I wouldn't submit it because it has rim damage and will probably come back in a genuine holder.
It is a good coin for a Sunday bourse. >>
What's a Sunday bourse?
edit:
I looked it up: Coin show.
I figured it'd be good to get it slabbed to at least certify authenticity.
WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
<< <i>I wouldn't submit it because it has rim damage and will probably come back in a genuine holder.
It is a good coin for a Sunday bourse. >>
IMHO…please don't listen to this advice…SEND IT IN ASAP! That coin is worth plenty even in a genuine holder…and a deal made at a Sunday bourse (with that coin RAW) requires that you bring some lubrication cause you will need it
Erik
I don't see the diagnostic lump under the second t in states, but it still may be as dies for both struck both proof and Business strikes. Maybe one of the shield experts can chime in on that.
<< <i>I wouldn't submit it because it has rim damage and will probably come back in a genuine holder. >>
But for this date, just the authentication adds huge value even without a grade.
Coin Rarities Online
<< <i>I think it'll grade. >>
I don't. The denticles are distorted. It is definately worth getting in a holder....especially as a business strike! It will get a grade...alias XF details rim damage.
I'm just trying to figure out what service level I need to do this.
So far, one poster says it should be fine with the new membership freebies.
Does anyone disagree?
Also, what's that "Rarities" service level all about anyway?
WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
<< <i>No doubts about it, this is getting submitted.
I'm just trying to figure out what service level I need to do this.
So far, one poster says it should be fine with the new membership freebies.
Does anyone disagree?
Also, what's that "Rarities" service level all about anyway? >>
Absolutly 100% FINE IMO to submit with a new membership freebie…Like Nike bro (to relate to you on a sports forum level)…Just Do It
Erik
WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
https://imdb.com/name/nm1835107/
<< <i>I think it'll grade. >>
+1
And...if it were me, I would pay the freight for express service.
Tom
Be aware that PCGS uses the declared value as the insurance amount. They will not make any reimbursement above it. Just FYI.
The rim ding could go either way. Certainly the coin should be submitted.
Brace yourself for a proof designation. It would be a major bummer. But I think it is very possible.
Lance.
<< <i>In terms of whether it will grade or not, the Photograde site has an 1880 as their G6 example, and it has rim damage around the same area as mine.
Yes it has rim damage...the denticles are worn away but the circle left from the remnants is visible and undistorted. Who knows...but my experience has been distorted denticles='s details holder. Given this is a rare coin it very well may grade...as always...especially with our host it's a crap shot!
Edit to add...I think you will be fine to submit in the 3K teir.
WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
<< <i>Is there any way that I can determine if this is a proof or not? >>
…the best way is to use your freebie and send it in to PCGS…because I have a feeling that anyone who tells you it is a proof…will immediately try and buy it off you at proof money and then take a $40 gamble and send it in themselves.
Erik
<< <i>
<< <i>Is there any way that I can determine if this is a proof or not? >>
…the best way is to use your freebie and send it in to PCGS…because I have a feeling that anyone who tells you it is a proof…will immediately try and buy it off you at proof money and then take a $40 gamble and send it in themselves.
Erik >>
Yeah. Still, more info is always useful even if it's just for my own education. This coin stuff is fun.
WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
<< <i>Yes, you can send it in and just declare $3,000. Should not be a problem, especially because there is the rim ding concern. If PCGS has an issue over the service level they will get in touch with you. But I seriously doubt it.
Be aware that PCGS uses the declared value as the insurance amount. They will not make any reimbursement above it. Just FYI.
The rim ding could go either way. Certainly the coin should be submitted.
Brace yourself for a proof designation. It would be a major bummer. But I think it is very possible.
Lance. >>
Lance just saved me from a lot of typing as he put (above) what I was thinking.
Given the risk/reward, and the opposing viewpoints already in this thread (send it, don't send it), I would send it and roll with the punches one way or another.
Life's a gamble, so you may as well roll the dice once or twice
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment
While the coin does show the obverse associated with the "island reverse" that gets the automatic business strike designation, unfortunately the reverse does not show the island. This does not mean it is not a business strike. My opinion, based on photos which is especially difficult for 1880s, is that this is a business strike - the shield shows some typical business strike weakness and the veins on the leaves are weak as on a business strike (I don't think that's wear).
I have no opinion about how PCGS will handle this coin. The key question would be if they put in a Genuine holder, will they at least note whether they consider a business strike or a proof?
This is a nice 1880 IMO - highly collectible and pretty expensive in today's market. Even a Genuine holder would help its value if the holder says business strike. If it doesn't say business or proof, then the holder won't do much for the value because most people will not want to take the chance that this is a proof and business strike money.
http://www.shieldnickels.net
<< <i>In my opinion, this coin is EF-45 details with a rim dent and a gouge (below I of AMERICA).
While the coin does show the obverse associated with the "island reverse" that gets the automatic business strike designation, unfortunately the reverse does not show the island. This does not mean it is not a business strike. My opinion, based on photos which is especially difficult for 1880s, is that this is a business strike - the shield shows some typical business strike weakness and the veins on the leaves are weak as on a business strike (I don't think that's wear).
I have no opinion about how PCGS will handle this coin. The key question would be if they put in a Genuine holder, will they at least note whether they consider a business strike or a proof?
This is a nice 1880 IMO - highly collectible and pretty expensive in today's market. Even a Genuine holder would help its value if the holder says business strike. If it doesn't say business or proof, then the holder won't do much for the value because most people will not want to take the chance that this is a proof and business strike money. >>
...wouldn't the PCGS coin number located to the left of the cert number tell you if it were a proof or business strike?
Erik
<< <i>I wouldn't submit it because it has rim damage and will probably come back in a genuine holder.
It is a good coin for a Sunday bourse. >>
That is very bad advice, IMO.
A business strike version of an 1880 5c is a very valuable and desirable item.
Even in a Genuine holder, the coin is much more valuable and salable than a raw one.
And I think it is absolutely fine to submit in the under $3000 service.
<< <i>The key question would be if they put in a Genuine holder, will they at least note whether they consider a business strike or a proof? >>
Aren't proofs and business strikes considered different coins, from PCGS's standpoint? If it was slabbed as "authentic" without a grade, wouldn't PCGS distinguish whether or not it was a proof or not?
WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
<< <i>
<< <i>I wouldn't submit it because it has rim damage and will probably come back in a genuine holder.
It is a good coin for a Sunday bourse. >>
That is very bad advice, IMO.
A business strike version of an 1880 5c is a very valuable and desirable item.
Even in a Genuine holder, the coin is much more valuable and salable than a raw one.
And I think it is absolutely fine to submit in the under $3000 service. >>
As someone who collected MS Shield Nickels very seriously in the 1990's I can tell you that, in my opinion, it is not possible to identify the MS pieces vs. the proofs. Yes, I know all the stories "experts" tell, but I don't buy them. Those stories were told to me many times back when I was in the market for Shield Nickels. (I ended up buying a proof as I wasn't willing to pay any premium for the so-called MS coins of that date.
That said, it is true that the holder of this coin could make considerable money if he could get it certified as a non-proof. Once it is in plastic and certified as a non-proof he need only find a buyer that does buy the stories the "experts" tell.
Collectors need to make their own decisions on coins such as this. I made mine and am very satisfied with my decision.