I have dumb questions for Sac and Jefferson Guys
BigBen
Posts: 329
Hey gang,
I have some questions regarding Jefferson and Sacs.
JEFFERSONS:
1) What's the deal with the prices on 1982 P&D, 83 P&D, and 84P? I have a handful of these in circulated condition and was wondering why they have values in Numismedia Fair Market Value above their face even in circulated condition???? I'm clueless so please explain
2) "Filled D" mint marks on Jeffersons......What's the deal with these? I have a 1975 D and 1980 D where the D is solid! Found these in cirulcated rolls and was wondering if there is anything to them?
SACS (Golden Dollar):
1) I went to a local bank recently and asked the teller for some shiny Sacs or UNC rolls if they had any (I know- long shot). Well, she said she had a few rolls and proceeded to open some up and take out the shiny ones for me (she was a great person!). She put them in a roll and I bought them for face value ($25). When I got home and took them out they all appeared to be Brilliant or Gem UNC. They were 50/50 2000 Ds and Ps along with one 2001P. My question is, should I keep these and are they worth anything more than face? I saw the Numismedia guide list them higher than face for UNC, but in the real world, how hard is it to find these at face value for UNC ones?? I did call several banks in my area and these were hard to find in general, except if I wanted one that was brown and circulated
I believe this bank has some more UNC Sacs like this and was wondering if should grab them? I'm trying to save money right now and keeping these would be fine only if they is some potential to at least quadruple in value otherwise I'm going to send them back to the bank. Or maybe I could them above face as a UNC roll on Ebay? Opinions? Suggestions?
THANKS!
BigBEn
I have some questions regarding Jefferson and Sacs.
JEFFERSONS:
1) What's the deal with the prices on 1982 P&D, 83 P&D, and 84P? I have a handful of these in circulated condition and was wondering why they have values in Numismedia Fair Market Value above their face even in circulated condition???? I'm clueless so please explain
2) "Filled D" mint marks on Jeffersons......What's the deal with these? I have a 1975 D and 1980 D where the D is solid! Found these in cirulcated rolls and was wondering if there is anything to them?
SACS (Golden Dollar):
1) I went to a local bank recently and asked the teller for some shiny Sacs or UNC rolls if they had any (I know- long shot). Well, she said she had a few rolls and proceeded to open some up and take out the shiny ones for me (she was a great person!). She put them in a roll and I bought them for face value ($25). When I got home and took them out they all appeared to be Brilliant or Gem UNC. They were 50/50 2000 Ds and Ps along with one 2001P. My question is, should I keep these and are they worth anything more than face? I saw the Numismedia guide list them higher than face for UNC, but in the real world, how hard is it to find these at face value for UNC ones?? I did call several banks in my area and these were hard to find in general, except if I wanted one that was brown and circulated
THANKS!
BigBEn
0
Comments
1982 and 1983 no mint sets were issued, so no cutting out nice coins, also the mintages for 82,83,84 were considered a little lower, hence the price. The 82 and 83 were issued in bags, hece many wen't into circulation. My best 2 cents.
As for the Filled D, never seen a premium on these coins.
Sac's, no help here!
There were some issued in souvenere sets. Can't remark on the 84.......or the other Jeffersons'
As far as the Sacagaweas'...... the 2000 P & D were issued for circulation and 2001.If you want one brown keep it in you pocket for a while .
I have a 2002 P as a pocket piece I carry now and then.
There were a lot of Sackies shipped to South America from what I understand a while ago back in 2000.
For the Sac folks, can you chime in on whether or not getting uncirculated 20002001 Sacs at the bank at face value are worth keeping?
Thanks!
BigBen
However, the uncirculated ones that grade in the upper tier are quite valuable in todays market.
or AU condition any more so these are worth the trouble of saving. There are numerous varieties
of the '82 nickels and a couple of these are tough in any condition.
The '84-P nickels was just one of those dates that were overlooked. The availability of most coins
made since 1934 has much less to do with how few were minted than with how many get saved.
Even the scarcest coins made in the last 70 years are usually widely enough available that people
can set aside as many as they want. In '84 everyone knew the mint sets were returning so there
was no need to save nickels and the Philly issue was very poorly made. Even those who planned
to set some aside might change their minds when they saw the quality of this issue. These suffer
from being struck by worn dies and to a lesser extent tend to have poor surfaces.
Nice circulated '84-P's may well be a better bet than the '82 and '83 issues. As far as that goes, there
are dozens of dates throughout the moderns that are a better bet in nice circulated condition. The
best way to figure out which is to try to assemble a set.
I think I read somewhere, that it was referred to as the 13 tail feather design, while the regular issue is considered a 12 feather design. But you'll see a distinct difference on the reverse.
Hidden Treasure Link
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
A FULL FIVE YEARS AFTER IT'S RELEASE".
I bought a really nice 82-P Jeff awhile back just because the quarters from that date went up so much and I could easily afford to pay 25 cents for the nickel. Right now it is my best coin purchase, especially since I saw an 82-P at a coin show last year for $9 and mine is much nicer. I know the $8.75 price gain is peanuts but I prefer to tell folks it's gone up 36 times with more appreciation on the way....