Ever crack a dealer's code?

kiyote · June 29, 2005 6:57AM

I'm pretty sure I know my dealer's code for cameo, but that's as far as I've gotten.

Gator5220 · June 29, 2005 6:58AM

???

lathmach · June 29, 2005 7:00AM

Used to all the time. See enough of a guys stock, you can figure it out.

Ray

dthigpen · June 29, 2005 7:00AM

I did so with a local dealer here in San Diego. I notified them and they just laughed and told me that if I would have asked they would have told me all of the information themselves... Heh.

PerryHall · June 29, 2005 7:04AM

What difference does it make? They know how much they need for their coin and I doubt they will budge just because you cracked their pricing code.

foodude · June 29, 2005 7:07AM

What difference does it make? They know how much they need for their coin and I doubt they will budge just because you cracked their pricing code. Bingo

MrEureka · June 29, 2005 7:12AM

Coin dealer codes typically contain 10 non-repeating letters, each representing a digit from 0 to 9. For example, one dealer's code was "mendacious". In that code, a $750 cost might be coded as "OCM".

Can anyone suggest other codes that might be in use?

PerryHall · June 29, 2005 7:23AM

BRICK MASON is popular. My full name has exactly 10 different letters so guess what I use.

longtimecollector · June 29, 2005 7:27AM

I once knew a dealer that used a rather simple code......... The date he put it in inventory was the first 2 digits........ 01=Jan, 02=Feb, etc....... The next digits represented 2x the price he paid, but the order was reversed.......... The last 2 digits represented the year the piece went into inventory.......... For example.............. If he bought a Morgan for $ 425 in June 2005, the code would be 0605805......... Took a while, but I figured it out !!!!!!!!!!

mozin · June 29, 2005 7:35AM

My code is pretty hard to break since it does not spell anything. It was a little hard for me to learn some 46 years ago.

relayer · June 29, 2005 7:36AM

I've run into some dealers at shows who don't even know their own codes.

When you ask about the price, they have to open the case, look at the sticker on the back, then go to their book and try and find it. Sometimes they do and sometimes they don't.

streeter · June 29, 2005 8:23AM

a=1
b=2
etc

ab means 12.....and it up to me how many zeros to add, was 12 bucks or $120 or $1200?

cg means 37...normally I can remember if I paid $37 or $370. Don't have any $3700 cost basis coins.

jdimmick · June 29, 2005 8:23AM

I know both of my local dealers codes. Course it really doesnt matter as it doesnt change the price he is selling it for.

I myself dont use a code, I can go by memory?

foodude · June 29, 2005 8:36AM

've run into some dealers at shows who don't even know their own codes.

MadMarty · June 29, 2005 8:42AM

<< I once knew a dealer that used a rather simple code......... The date he put it in inventory was the first 2 digits........ 01=Jan, 02=Feb, etc....... The next digits represented 2x the price he paid, but the order was reversed.......... The last 2 digits represented the year the piece went into inventory.......... For example.............. If he bought a Morgan for $ 425 in June 2005, the code would be 0605805......... Took a while, but I figured it out !!!!!!!!!! >>

I think I know that dealer!!

lordmarcovan · June 29, 2005 8:55AM

MIDAS TOUCH is my old one. M=1, I=2, etc.

PerryHall · June 29, 2005 8:59AM

<< MIDAS TOUCH is my old one. M=1, I=2, etc. >>

I'm curious. Why did you stop using this code?

Cameonut · June 29, 2005 9:11AM

QUICK TRADE is one code I've been able to crack.

Glad to know some of the other codes. Some dealers list two codes: one for the price and the other for what they paid.

lordmarcovan · June 29, 2005 9:40AM

<< I'm curious. Why did you stop using this code? >>

'Cause I just told you about it.

Nah, seriously, though, I've used another for the last several years.

UncleJoe · June 29, 2005 10:05AM

Right Value

Joe.

coppercoins · June 29, 2005 10:23AM

I used LUCKY TIMES years ago but use a far more difficult to break code now. Only myself and my wife have any clue how I do it. It uses 19 letters and all the digits and I can read it more quickly than a book.

CoinHusker · June 29, 2005 10:39AM

You mean like this?

<<

>>

Sorry I couldn't resist. this pic cracks me up.

photo hijacked from LordMarcovan

TheNumish · June 29, 2005 11:07AM

some codes I've seen.
coinmarket
makeprofit
brickhouse
adiscovery
sometimes people use x for zero to throw you off. seen some use o for the forst letter and others use o for the last letter.

librtyhead · June 29, 2005 11:09AM

I markup all at x 1.35 % that is 35% thats the cost of doing a wholesale. I have sold coins for this amount and still made a profit of it.Now if I have a good cust.I have been known to markup only 1.2 or 1.18 anybody else have some marketing input???????????????it all depends on how much a person spends each year.I would give a guy a better deal if he spends more per year annually..........sales rm 101

librtyhead · June 29, 2005 11:16AM

that would be up from my cost.

topstuf · June 29, 2005 11:18AM

I always add some flyers to the code. Sometimes in the middle. Random.

I've used the same one so long that I sometimes add a column of codes and have to carry the "n" or something.

librtyhead · June 29, 2005 11:18AM

ttt

lordmarcovan · June 29, 2005 11:29AM

<< photo hijacked from LordMarcovan >>

I hijacked it from K6AZ. Who probably hijacked it from Ira.

prooflike · June 29, 2005 11:39AM

My code is in a foreign language

ldhair · June 29, 2005 12:26PM

I once knew a dealer that gave out his code.
He would say "this is my cost and I will take X amount"
I'm quite sure his markup as in the X amount.

JRocco · June 29, 2005 2:05PM

<< Coin dealer codes typically contain 10 non-repeating letters, each representing a digit from 0 to 9. For example, one dealer's code was "mendacious". In that code, a $750 cost might be coded as "OCM".

Can anyone suggest other codes that might be in use? >>

Mine used to be SECURITY PH

ccex · June 29, 2005 2:15PM

<< Coin dealer codes typically contain 10 non-repeating letters, each representing a digit from 0 to 9. For example, one dealer's code was "mendacious". In that code, a $750 cost might be coded as "OCM".

Can anyone suggest other codes that might be in use? >>

A computer store and a rare book dealer in Chicago each used the same code to mark their cost in an item: HAGERSTOWN. 1=H, 2=A, 3=G ...N=0 with X meaning a repeat of the previous digit. $150 = HRN, $300 = GNX. Perhaps this is also still in use in Maryland or at an unmentionable grading company in Florida!

coinlieutenant · June 29, 2005 2:36PM

My code is fairly complex. I use a combination of 12 English/greek letters/numbers that have meaning and unlimited ones that mean nothing.

One symbol/letter/# is the start of the price...everything before is meaningless.
One symbol/letter/# is the end of the price...everything after is meaningless.

If the starting symbol/letter/# does not show up in the price then the first character is the start of the price I paid.
If the ending symbol/letter/# does not show up in the price then the last character is the end of the price I paid.

For example: If my code were this...and I will make it simple...

A=Start of meaningful code
Z=End of meaningful code

Y=0
B=1
M=2
3=3
F=4
T=5
H=6
V=7
Q=8
W=9

then....if I paid 372$ for a coin I could write it an unlimited number of ways...like:

this....A3VM....OR...3VMZHYTER...OR...NBVA3VM...OR just 3VM.

Now, add in greek letters, symbols, English letters and numbers and it is tricky. However...now that I told you my secret...and you know the code is initialized and finalized by one letter, you could figure it out.
Of course, now that I know that you know, I could add two more initialization symbols and two more finalization symbols to throw you off!!

This is the kind of crap that goes through my head. It's a terrible thing to waste!

bushmaster8 · June 30, 2005 1:24AM

COMPLAINED is very popular.

JadeRareCoin · June 30, 2005 2:39AM

I know 2 different dealers who use Greek for their code.

I use different codes depending on a coin's denomination and series. So, if you want to crack my code, you have several to do. However, lately I have just been writing the price right on the back of the flip without a code. Like this: 350 for $350. Just being lazy. I usually tell people my cost anyway, so it would be easy to crack my codes.

JadeRareCoin · June 30, 2005 2:43AM

MadMarty's code is "AB". A=1 and B=2. He uses "AB" because it is easy to remember. The only problem is that he has a hard time buying stuff because it must be priced at either $1, $2, $12 or $21.

XpipedreamR · June 30, 2005 2:46AM

<< MadMarty's code is "AB". A=1 and B=2. He uses "AB" because it is easy to remember. The only problem is that he has a hard time buying stuff because it must be priced at either $1, $2, $12 or $21. >>

PerryHall · June 30, 2005 3:09AM

<< MadMarty's code is "AB". A=1 and B=2. He uses "AB" because it is easy to remember. The only problem is that he has a hard time buying stuff because it must be priced at either $1, $2, $12 or $21. >>

He also needs "EH" for the grades.

gemtone65 · June 30, 2005 3:21AM

PerryHall: "What difference does it make?"

Foodude: "Bingo."

Even if its true the seller won't budge from some minimum price, you as a buyer don't know what that price is. Moreover, you are in a much better bargaining position if you can improve your assessment of his minimum price. One way of doing so is to know his cost of the item, which can usually be obtained by breaking the seller's code. So, I would respectfully (and strongly) disagree with the quotes noted above.

UncleJoe · June 30, 2005 3:23AM

He also needs "EH" for the grades.

I thought he only needed "AU".

Joe.

PerryHall · June 30, 2005 4:21AM

<< PerryHall: "What difference does it make?"

Foodude: "Bingo."

Even if its true the seller won't budge from some minimum price, you as a buyer don't know what that price is. Moreover, you are in a much better bargaining position if you can improve your assessment of his minimum price. One way of doing so is to know his cost of the item, which can usually be obtained by breaking the seller's code. So, I would respectfully (and strongly) disagree with the quotes noted above. >>

When buying I always ask the dealer for his "best price". Based on that price I either "play" or "pass". Knowing his cost doesn't influence the outcome of the senario.

JadeRareCoin · June 30, 2005 4:22AM

Some dealers put actually put an inflated buy price on their holders. So.....even if you do crack a dealer's code, can you be sure that it is his actual buy price?

kyleknap · June 30, 2005 4:45AM

Personally, when selling at shows, I write my cost on the label in a different base (other than 10). But, considering I change what base I use quite often, good luck figuring it out!

Kyle

PS...kiyote....my code for cameo is incredibly sophisticated, and has never been cracked, but today, I will reveal it just for the forum. It's "CAM."

UncleJoe · June 30, 2005 4:55AM

my code for cameo is incredibly sophisticated, and has never been cracked, but today, I will reveal it just for the forum. It's "CAM."

Dang, right in front of my eyes. And I thought it stood for a coin graded by "Cam".

Joe.

Tsimmerdown · June 30, 2005 5:10AM

My Wannabe dealer code is: ILOVELAURA

MORGANHUNTER2 · June 30, 2005 5:31AM

why bother with the code? if you want the coin and are willing to pay a certain price for it- tell the dealer or ask what he wants- if it is not where you are $ wise- tell him your price- simple. I have yet to give the dealer his price- we can meet on simple ground- if not I go away.

Nap · June 30, 2005 7:10AM

Coinlieutenant,

Your code reminds me of genetics. I couldn't help thinking of start and stop codons, promotor sequences, TATA and pribnow boxes, all that fun stuff.

gemtone65 · June 30, 2005 7:22AM

PerryHall: My experience is that simply asking a dealer for his best price will not always elicit an accurate response. Moreover, sometimes a customer will begin walking away after hearing the response, and the dealer will call back "what did you have in mind?" In these instances, where the initial response by the dealer was not acceptable, a counter-offer to his "best price" may be worthwhile, or perhaps even some signal to the dealer that you're interested but at a somewhat lower level than his original "best price" offer." If the dealer is receptive, which occurs in a surprisingly high percentage of times, knowing both his "best offer" and his cost would allow the potential buyer to make a plausible counter offer. Hence, in these cases knowing the dealer's cost improves the probablity of getting an item and of acquiring it at a more favorable price.

xbob · June 30, 2005 7:24AM

Ever code a dealer's crack?

Not me.
But it just had to be asked...

coinlieutenant · July 4, 2005 5:51AM

Nap,

Exactly what I based it on.

J

Ever crack a dealer's code?

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