So I received my copy of Mark Goodman's Numismatic Photography book..........New Pics added!
bolivarshagnasty
Posts: 7,348 ✭✭✭✭✭
......and very informative as many here have suggested. The photos below were shot with a Fuji FinePix F10 6.3 megapixel point and shoot. Does have Macro but only auto focus. After a few practice runs, I came up with
these. Feel free to critique. Haven't made it through the whole book, so I'm still discovering. Thanks in advance for the feedback. Oh and BTW, the colors closely match what I'm seeing on my desk under the same light. Did not
adjust color or contrast. Shot on a copy stand.
these. Feel free to critique. Haven't made it through the whole book, so I'm still discovering. Thanks in advance for the feedback. Oh and BTW, the colors closely match what I'm seeing on my desk under the same light. Did not
adjust color or contrast. Shot on a copy stand.
0
Comments
too bad you only have auto focus.
see if there is a shutter delay. not as crisp as can be.
lighting angles need some work.
overall, very good.
do you have a shutter release remote?
i've recently discovered how to do mass-quantaties of circ coins with 1 light and super-fast shutter release. i can plow through stacks of coins now. only took 4+ years to learn. LOL
keep up the good work and congratz on getting the amazing coin photography book.
.
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Of course my current setup is far from ideal and nothing like the above description, so don't think I'm all high and mighty over here ... just trying to learn what you've achieved after four years of trials and tribulations
Amat Colligendo Focum
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It's faster to shoot each coin once than 50 times trying to get a crisp, clear shot. I do think, however, that by saying "super-fast shutter release" he means using enough light to allow for fast shutter speeds. Of course, using a stable platform helps too.
I think the OP's photos are on the right track. Just a little tweaking to improve crispness and moving the light to bring out some luster bands and you're almost there. It might be difficult to get the focus correct when shooting slabbed coins though without being able to set it manually. It looks like the coin and the lens might not be perfectly parallel. Some regions are crisp and some are out of focus. I struggled with that endlessly until I started shooting in tethered mode.
2. To prevent camera shake with a point and shoot that doesn't allow remote control, use the 2 second self-timer.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars
<< <i>1. The lighting is too harsh for those coins. If you look especially at the 1991, you'll see large white areas and large dark areas. Diffuse the light a bit and raise it to a higher angle if possible so that the coin is more evenly lit.
2. To prevent camera shake with a point and shoot that doesn't allow remote control, use the 2 second self-timer. >>
Thanks for the responses everyone. I'll experiment with the lighting. I did use the 2 second delay timer on those pics. Mel
<< <i>Remote eliminates the chance of camera shake when you press the shutter button. >>
THIS was the answer to my question.
With pro DSLRs the focus is always in the lens. The lens I use has great auto-focus features that do not require trying "50 times trying to get a crisp, clear shot" ... my heart goes out to all of you who do!
Unfortunately [for me] most of my pictures were taken by someone else (the seller of the coin, or the seller two generations back, etc.) so most of my pictures are not the quality I could produce. But I don't have the time so I deal.
Amat Colligendo Focum
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Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
<< <i>
<< <i>Remote eliminates the chance of camera shake when you press the shutter button. >>
THIS was the answer to my question.
With pro DSLRs the focus is always in the lens. The lens I use has great auto-focus features that do not require trying >>
I could never get by without manual focus. I have not found a lens yet that is accurate enough to focus properly. I've heard the Canon 100mm does a pretty good job with Dollars as long as you have the aperture at f/8 so the DOF is fairly wide and focus isn't all that critical, but if you want really sharp shots on Cents (which is what I shoot mostly...) using wide apertures then it has to be manual.
Edited for typo..."I could never get by without manual focus"
http://macrocoins.com
A light polishing lets the camera most of the time focus on the coin not the slab.
Critiques are welcome.
http://macrocoins.com
The last bulb I'd turn to is a fluorescent. Mark explains this well. But the best advice is to use whatever works for you. And I would quickly agree that different lighting is important for different coin types.
Glad to see you getting the photography bug! It really adds to the enjoyment of the hobby.
Lance.
Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
Rob
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