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How would you describe the ultimate quality coin for the series you collect?

leothelyonleothelyon Posts: 8,572 ✭✭✭✭✭
With Jefferson nickels, the ultimate quality coin would need to have an early die state (EDS) (full details) strike, the minimum of marks, lustrous fields/surfaces and just the right amount of toning that blended well with the luster.

It's also well known that not every series has such ultimate qualities in their coins as others. They may have strike or luster problems or such coins are valued 10,000s of dollars and are in the top 5% and are out of most collector's reach.

This thread is not about which quality or eye appeal best suits you.

But, go ahead and try to describe what an ultimate quality coin would be in your own words for your series. If you collect circulated, describe those as well without using the Sheldon grading scale.


Leo



The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!

My Jefferson Nickel Collection

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    leothelyonleothelyon Posts: 8,572 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Easy, fully original surfaces, naturally & beautifully toned and a little on the dark side, full cartwheel luster or booming luster if at all possible, a decent strike depending on how the die marriage comes, and eye appeal like a classic oil painting. >>



    That was very good! What series does that apply to.....all silver coinage? Of course it does but it also depends on the experience of the collector, their definition of originality, naturally & beautifully toned etc. There are many collectors who are just not on the right track when they choose their coins.


    Leo image

    The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!

    My Jefferson Nickel Collection

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    cladkingcladking Posts: 30,337 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Fortunately my specialty is something really "easy" like clad quarters.

    Not every date appears as the "ideal" and even those that do come so nice there are
    some that come nicer than others.

    A perfect eagle reverse clad quarter will be struck by brand new dies. There will be tiny
    imperfections from the dies on both sides of the coin. It will be fully stuck with the tops
    of all the periphery lettering having nice rounded tops and all the detail will be present
    in the designs. Luster won't be booming because the first ten or twelve strikes from a
    new pair of well adjusted dies won't have the worn surfaces that create lots of luster.
    Thisa ideal is best typified by a 1972 quarter since most of the new dies this year were
    well adjusted so nice even strikes with nice even rims were often made. Many of these
    coins escaped being marked up by the equipment.

    Of course there are other ways to make a "perfect" clad. These would be struck by very
    new dies but after they had worn smooth. These would start around the 15th strike and
    continue through about the 400th. Again these will be spectacular well centered strikes
    and sometimes the obverse die will be slightly basined giving it a PL appearance. This
    is best typified by some of the '79-D's found in mint sets. About 1% are superb PL's and
    are among the finest made of the clad quarters. These still had a higher relief in those
    days and only the slower mint set presses struck such coins. The very best of the '79-D's
    are jusat spectacular. Other dates come cleaner and a few can be better struck but for
    overall quality this one has to be among the best at the high end. Of course, on average,
    the '72-D quarter is the finest.

    Only modern dimes and most cents come nicer than the clad quarter . The half is a close
    fourth and the SBA fifth. The Ike and the nickel are tough. The Ike is tough because most
    have numerous problems and finding one without problems is simply rare. The nickel is
    tough because it seems there's always a problem with one side or the other, or both, or
    the strike, or it's all marked up. One sided gem nickels are very common. One sided gem
    Ikes are nearly as rare as two sided gems.

    Most modern MS-65 sets are extremely challenging but possible and generally inexpensive.
    At MS-66 even cent sets get a little tough.
    tempus fugit extra philosophiam.
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    It costs more then i want to spend image
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    BanemorthBanemorth Posts: 986 ✭✭✭
    Natural beauty, great sun-kissed toning, natural surfaces, about 5 foot 5, red hair...
    Justin From Jersey

    Successful Transactions With: JoeLewis, Mkman123, Harry779, Grote15, gdavis70, Kryptonitecomics
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    LotsoLuckLotsoLuck Posts: 3,786 ✭✭✭
    Cladking...you got a book out?
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    MidLifeCrisisMidLifeCrisis Posts: 10,618 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you consider colonials as "a series" -

    I look for coins that I believe have original surfaces.

    For copper, I prefer a smooth, hard planchet with a nice, even warm color that reminds me of milk chocolate.

    For silver, I look for the same attributes in the planchet and I look for natural but subtle toning that comes with age.

    I also prefer a strong strike and a lack of planchet flaws or overwhelming marks.
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    leothelyonleothelyon Posts: 8,572 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Luster won't be booming because the first ten or twelve strikes from a new pair of well adjusted dies won't have the worn surfaces that create lots of luster.

    Introducing my one and only MS69 6 Step coin.

    image
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    Thank you Cladking for a well written post!


    Leo image

    The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!

    My Jefferson Nickel Collection

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