What to do with Topps factory sets from 1986-2017

So I bought a bunch of Topss factory sets, one each, a couple of years back. I'm not really sure what I was thinking because I hate bulk anything. At the time, I was thinking of maybe bindering all the key star cards but that doesn't really hold any appeal to me though it's possible it may someday. I think I spent like a $1K on it. Some options I'm considering are:

  1. Just leave them be.
  2. Pull all the RCs and Yankees cards and dump the rest. I've dumped a lot of bulk items in my life, some of which was a bad idea.
  3. Sell it to a local card shop for like 50% or whatever because I have no intention of shipping them.

Any other ideas? Anything super special I should be on the lookout for?

Comments

  • DBesse27DBesse27 Posts: 544 ✭✭✭✭

    All I can say is no card shop is going to give you $500 for those

    Yaz Master Set
    #1 Gino Cappelletti master set
    #1 John Hannah master set

    Also collecting:
    1964 & 68 Venezuelan Topps
    1974 Topps Red Sox
    Andre Tippett

  • Gemyanks10Gemyanks10 Posts: 1,091 ✭✭✭

    Assuming these are all factory sealed, I would leave them be and display them nicely if space isn’t an issue. This is coming from an unopened collector though. Love those colorful Christmas factory sets Topps did in the mid-late 80’s.

    If they aren’t factory sealed, I would rip looking for stars and good rookies to keep as there is no shortage of any of those years. (1986 factory set being the rarest, but if it isn’t sealed, there isn’t too much value there anyhow.)

    Always looking for OPC "tape intact" baseball wax boxes, and 1984 OPC baseball PSA 10's for my set. Please PM or email me if you have any available.
  • FSFFSF Posts: 503 ✭✭✭

    They are all sealed.

  • Gemyanks10Gemyanks10 Posts: 1,091 ✭✭✭
    edited July 10, 2019 8:54PM

    @FSF said:
    They are all sealed.

    Personally, I’m a hoarder of this stuff, even though after 86, the value drops off significantly. If you did decide to rip or sell them off, the good thing is they can all be easily replaced if you ever decide to want to acquire them again.

    Edited to say that when ripping these factory sets, like vending boxes, quality control is usually uniform throughout. So if you are a stickler for centering, if the first couple cards you pull out aren’t centered, there’s a good chance none of the cards in the set will be. They were pumping these out around the clock quickly with little regard to quality control but that’s pretty common knowledge. (Speaking mainly of the 80’s-early 90’s)

    Always looking for OPC "tape intact" baseball wax boxes, and 1984 OPC baseball PSA 10's for my set. Please PM or email me if you have any available.
  • FSFFSF Posts: 503 ✭✭✭

    I've bought a fair amount of slabbed modern over the years, though I don't own much today, but it seems like most of the cards from the late 1990s thru today were mostly centered very well. Is that not other people's experience? Obviously buying cards graded 10, or perusing them, might give me a skewed perspective of how well they were made.

  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 23,544 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 10, 2019 9:00PM

    That's a tough one.

    I'm in the process of cleaning out my storage areas in the house and just found a bunch of 91T sets - probably got them at the Px on sale - price on them was reduced a few times - probably paid like 10 bucks per.

    (I even found a few more in another box!)

    I agree - would cost more to ship than worth IMO in many instances with the years you're talking about.

    I don't even know what advice to give unfortunately.

    edit: what's your first name?

    Mike



  • pab1969pab1969 Posts: 206 ✭✭✭

    Have a garage sale and mark them each $10 or $20. Take any offers and whatever doesn't sell, donate and claim it on next tax return.

  • MintacularMintacular Posts: 1,092 ✭✭✭

    You could post of Facebook marketplace or Craigslist, try to find a local collector who might appreciate them and throw a couple hundred or whatever bucks for them

    Collector Interest: Clemente & Mantle
  • ldfergldferg Posts: 6,419 ✭✭✭

    If you are interested in breaking them up, PM me a price for the 86, 93, 94, 01.



    Thanks,

    David (LD_Ferg)



    1985 Topps Football (starting in psa 8) - #9 - started 05/21/06
  • DotStoreDotStore Posts: 211 ✭✭✭

    @FSF said:
    Any other ideas? Anything super special I should be on the lookout for?

    That 1993 set included some of the Gold cards. The set does have a base set Jeter rookie, but it's hard to count on it being a 10. If you're really lucky and one of the Gold cards is a Jeter (slim chance), that could be one of your biggest hits...

    Any chance you have a Tiffany set included in those?

  • FSFFSF Posts: 503 ✭✭✭

    Not interest in shipping or selling any of these via mail, but I appreciate the offer.

    As far as the sets themselves, I'm not remotely trying to say they are anything special and I haven't checked pricing lately but many of the sets of the last 20 years seemed to go for $50+ so I'm just wondering if some of you might be conflating the junk wax/set era of the late 1980s to early/mid 90s with equating with some of the more desirable, not to say they are in significant demand, sets of the more recent past of 20 years or so.

    The money is not so much the issue as I have had thoughts of just tossing them because they do take up like 4 comic shortboxes. So unless I can clear it out in one lump sum without shipping, selling them is probably not an option. Thanks for the reponses.

  • JoeBanzaiJoeBanzai Posts: 5,331 ✭✭✭✭

    I was in a card shop a while ago and overheard a customer telling the owner he had several factory sets from the 1970's through the early '80s, I think starting with 1976. The card shop owner told him to bring them in and he would take a look.

    After he left, I approached the owner and asked if he was excited about this potential "find". He said that he wasn't, as there were few money cards and they had to be in high grade. I kind of scoffed at that, but he did go into quite a bit of detail on specific cards and the probability of getting a NM/MT card.

    I was/am still skeptical, but when thinking of it from his point of view, most sets have only a few "big" cards and of course only one of each. Anything off-center, even if otherwise mint, is worthless.

    If this thinking goes as far back as the 1970's you are not going to get much at a card shop.

    You are correct about the centering on newer cards being better, however they now have to be nearly perfectly centered to get a 9 and for most of the "key" cards you have they will have to be a 10 to be worth grading listing etc.

    I purchased a box of 1985 Topps a while back from BBCE, didn't get a McGwire, and not one card (and there were some nice rookies) was worth sending in for grading. 9's just don't bring in enough to make it worth your while.

    I would just keep them, but if you must get rid of them, my advice is your option #2, but I would also pull the superstar cards and see if you can sell them in lots to player collectors.

    Recently a run of 9 factory sets 1986-1994 sold on ebay for (less than) $220.00 plus $20.00 shipping. You don't want to ship, but I think it shows that there is not a big demand for something like this.

    Good luck with whatever you decide!

    2013,14 and 15 Certificate Award Winner Harmon Killebrew Master Set and Master Topps Set
  • krisd3279krisd3279 Posts: 632 ✭✭✭

    @FSF said:
    Not interest in shipping or selling any of these via mail, but I appreciate the offer.

    I don't understand the aversion to shipping. There are likely buyers out there that are collecting a run of sets and would pay the shipping charges (me). If it is just an unwillingness to put items in a box and drive them to a post office or shipping place then I guess I can understand it. Just toss them in the trash if you can't be bothered. I recently bought 4 complete sets from @1951WheatiesPremium in the range of years you are talking about. I paid the shipping charges on them and was happy to get them.

    Kris

    My 1971 Topps adventure - Davis Men in Black

  • GreenSneakersGreenSneakers Posts: 297 ✭✭✭

    Funny ... those are the exact gap years I need to do the “set for every year you’ve been alive”. I’m your target audience, and can confirm what everyone else has said. Shipping would kill any substantive proceeds versus the PIA factor. Need a local guy willing to take most of them off your hands in bulk. I’d suggest posting your general geographic location in BST and see if you get any nibbles. Otherwise, keep or donate.

  • FSFFSF Posts: 503 ✭✭✭

    It's not the money guys. It's the aggravation of getting a box that will accommodate and making sure that everything is packaged securely, going down to the post office, etc. I know I can probably retail for close to and for all I know more than the near $1200 that I paid for it, and wind up netting after fees and shipping over $1,000. I could make much more money, as I get paid by the hour and can work pretty much as much as I want, just doing more of the same old things I have to do every day which a bunch of number crunching and paper shuffling.

  • FSFFSF Posts: 503 ✭✭✭

    @JoeBanzai said:
    I was in a card shop a while ago and overheard a customer telling the owner he had several factory sets from the 1970's through the early '80s, I think starting with 1976. The card shop owner told him to bring them in and he would take a look.

    After he left, I approached the owner and asked if he was excited about this potential "find". He said that he wasn't, as there were few money cards and they had to be in high grade. I kind of scoffed at that, but he did go into quite a bit of detail on specific cards and the probability of getting a NM/MT card.

    I was/am still skeptical, but when thinking of it from his point of view, most sets have only a few "big" cards and of course only one of each. Anything off-center, even if otherwise mint, is worthless.

    If this thinking goes as far back as the 1970's you are not going to get much at a card shop.

    You are correct about the centering on newer cards being better, however they now have to be nearly perfectly centered to get a 9 and for most of the "key" cards you have they will have to be a 10 to be worth grading listing etc.

    I purchased a box of 1985 Topps a while back from BBCE, didn't get a McGwire, and not one card (and there were some nice rookies) was worth sending in for grading. 9's just don't bring in enough to make it worth your while.

    I would just keep them, but if you must get rid of them, my advice is your option #2, but I would also pull the superstar cards and see if you can sell them in lots to player collectors.

    Recently a run of 9 factory sets 1986-1994 sold on ebay for (less than) $220.00 plus $20.00 shipping. You don't want to ship, but I think it shows that there is not a big demand for something like this.

    Good luck with whatever you decide!

    I don't believe there were actual Topps factory sets prior to 1986. I may be off a couple of years. I also have "factory" sets of 1984 & 1985. That's how I bought them but I don't believe there were factory sets from Topps that year. I'm trying to base this all of memory so I could be wrong about some or all of this.

    But to address your perspective of breaking them and finding Mint cards, I wasn't expecting the LCS to actually go on a dig through these. They sell reasonably well on their own, for most of the sets starting around the mid 90s to now. They're not that valuable but I didn't think that 50% was than unreasonable as the LCS's in my area have a regular ebay presence and to the extent that they are just adding and handling a couple of dozen sets for a $500+ profit, it didn't seem that unreasonable to me but you folks may be right in that there is not much demand even there. Wouldn't surprise me one bit.

  • DBesse27DBesse27 Posts: 544 ✭✭✭✭

    Seems like you have it all figured out. So why ask for advice? I stand by my previous statement that it would be difficult to get $500 for the lot. If you “know” I’m wrong and you can get $1200, seems like a no brainer!

    Yaz Master Set
    #1 Gino Cappelletti master set
    #1 John Hannah master set

    Also collecting:
    1964 & 68 Venezuelan Topps
    1974 Topps Red Sox
    Andre Tippett

  • FSFFSF Posts: 503 ✭✭✭

    @DBesse27 said:
    Seems like you have it all figured out. So why ask for advice? I stand by my previous statement that it would be difficult to get $500 for the lot. If you “know” I’m wrong and you can get $1200, seems like a no brainer!

    I'm completely unclear on how to proceed which is why I will probably just leave them be for now. However, the $1200 or near that would might bring is in parsing it out and doing a lot of work in selling the sets mostly individual or in batches of 2-4 that people buy that are interested in particular years.

    I never once suggested that I could get anywhere near that selling it as a lot to a dealer. I might get somewhat close to it doing a one shot listing for it all on ebay but have no appetite for going that route for reasons already mentions.

  • Gemyanks10Gemyanks10 Posts: 1,091 ✭✭✭

    @FSF said:

    @JoeBanzai said:
    I was in a card shop a while ago and overheard a customer telling the owner he had several factory sets from the 1970's through the early '80s, I think starting with 1976. The card shop owner told him to bring them in and he would take a look.

    After he left, I approached the owner and asked if he was excited about this potential "find". He said that he wasn't, as there were few money cards and they had to be in high grade. I kind of scoffed at that, but he did go into quite a bit of detail on specific cards and the probability of getting a NM/MT card.

    I was/am still skeptical, but when thinking of it from his point of view, most sets have only a few "big" cards and of course only one of each. Anything off-center, even if otherwise mint, is worthless.

    If this thinking goes as far back as the 1970's you are not going to get much at a card shop.

    You are correct about the centering on newer cards being better, however they now have to be nearly perfectly centered to get a 9 and for most of the "key" cards you have they will have to be a 10 to be worth grading listing etc.

    I purchased a box of 1985 Topps a while back from BBCE, didn't get a McGwire, and not one card (and there were some nice rookies) was worth sending in for grading. 9's just don't bring in enough to make it worth your while.

    I would just keep them, but if you must get rid of them, my advice is your option #2, but I would also pull the superstar cards and see if you can sell them in lots to player collectors.

    Recently a run of 9 factory sets 1986-1994 sold on ebay for (less than) $220.00 plus $20.00 shipping. You don't want to ship, but I think it shows that there is not a big demand for something like this.

    Good luck with whatever you decide!

    I don't believe there were actual Topps factory sets prior to 1986. I may be off a couple of years. I also have "factory" sets of 1984 & 1985. That's how I bought them but I don't believe there were factory sets from Topps that year. I'm trying to base this all of memory so I could be wrong about some or all of this.

    But to address your perspective of breaking them and finding Mint cards, I wasn't expecting the LCS to actually go on a dig through these. They sell reasonably well on their own, for most of the sets starting around the mid 90s to now. They're not that valuable but I didn't think that 50% was than unreasonable as the LCS's in my area have a regular ebay presence and to the extent that they are just adding and handling a couple of dozen sets for a $500+ profit, it didn't seem that unreasonable to me but you folks may be right in that there is not much demand even there. Wouldn't surprise me one bit.

    @FSF said:

    @JoeBanzai said:
    I was in a card shop a while ago and overheard a customer telling the owner he had several factory sets from the 1970's through the early '80s, I think starting with 1976. The card shop owner told him to bring them in and he would take a look.

    After he left, I approached the owner and asked if he was excited about this potential "find". He said that he wasn't, as there were few money cards and they had to be in high grade. I kind of scoffed at that, but he did go into quite a bit of detail on specific cards and the probability of getting a NM/MT card.

    I was/am still skeptical, but when thinking of it from his point of view, most sets have only a few "big" cards and of course only one of each. Anything off-center, even if otherwise mint, is worthless.

    If this thinking goes as far back as the 1970's you are not going to get much at a card shop.

    You are correct about the centering on newer cards being better, however they now have to be nearly perfectly centered to get a 9 and for most of the "key" cards you have they will have to be a 10 to be worth grading listing etc.

    I purchased a box of 1985 Topps a while back from BBCE, didn't get a McGwire, and not one card (and there were some nice rookies) was worth sending in for grading. 9's just don't bring in enough to make it worth your while.

    I would just keep them, but if you must get rid of them, my advice is your option #2, but I would also pull the superstar cards and see if you can sell them in lots to player collectors.

    Recently a run of 9 factory sets 1986-1994 sold on ebay for (less than) $220.00 plus $20.00 shipping. You don't want to ship, but I think it shows that there is not a big demand for something like this.

    Good luck with whatever you decide!

    I don't believe there were actual Topps factory sets prior to 1986. I may be off a couple of years. I also have "factory" sets of 1984 & 1985. That's how I bought them but I don't believe there were factory sets from Topps that year. I'm trying to base this all of memory so I could be wrong about some or all of this.

    But to address your perspective of breaking them and finding Mint cards, I wasn't expecting the LCS to actually go on a dig through these. They sell reasonably well on their own, for most of the sets starting around the mid 90s to now. They're not that valuable but I didn't think that 50% was than unreasonable as the LCS's in my area have a regular ebay presence and to the extent that they are just adding and handling a couple of dozen sets for a $500+ profit, it didn't seem that unreasonable to me but you folks may be right in that there is not much demand even there. Wouldn't surprise me one bit.

    Yes there was. There was one in 1974, and ones from 1982-1985. The 1983-1984 ones came in just a plain brown box with a white sku sticker on the bottom and 1985 had a few different box variations...1982 and 1983 are the rarest of the 80’s...

    Always looking for OPC "tape intact" baseball wax boxes, and 1984 OPC baseball PSA 10's for my set. Please PM or email me if you have any available.
  • RyansRustRyansRust Posts: 151 ✭✭

    Unsure how cost effective shipping this route is but to avoid the hassle of going to the P.O....

    Make a USPS account (Free)
    Order empty Large Flat Rate Board Game Box (Free). I think 3 sets will fit per box. Maybe only 2. I can check when I get home if wanted.
    Print shipping label from Paypal or other.
    Schedule USPS pickup (Free)

    Formerly known on here as 1989fleerbillripkencollector

    Collecting FF and unopened baseball

  • EstilEstil Posts: 5,650 ✭✭✭
    edited July 12, 2019 4:00PM

    Honestly I think what you have is a neat collectible and it's kinda hard to put the run together...keep and treasure it for what it is.

    PS: I actually decided to start collecting unopened wax boxes...BBCE got me off to a good start with FASC's of 1986-89, 91 Topps (hopefully they'll get a 1990 soon)

    My best friend Jamiee (born 7/14/12) and my dearly departed Tweetie (6/15/05 - 8/18/12):

    http://s650.photobucket.com/user/Estil/library

    WISHLIST
    1974 Topps set : 38, 46, 48, 78, 79, 102, 138, 143, 148, 151, 156, 193, 201, 210, 214, 223, 241, 243, 256, 264, 266, 268, 277, 289, 290, 316, 349, 367, 379, 391, 392, 398, 404, 405, 429, 435, 460, 466, 492, 504, 535, 552, 570, 577, 592, 603, 610, 614, 616, 633, 654, 655, 660
    1997 Finest silver: 115, 135, 139, 145, 310
    1995 Ultra Gold Medallion Sets: Golden Prospects, HR Kings, On-Base Leaders, Power Plus, RBI Kings, Rising Stars
  • perkdogperkdog Posts: 18,686 ✭✭✭✭✭

    This is exactly why I never got into buying sets every year, besides the space issue, it gets to be too much to enjoy.

  • GreenSneakersGreenSneakers Posts: 297 ✭✭✭

    The 1983-1984 ones came in just a plain brown box with a white sku sticker on the bottom

    What’s the premium for a set like that? My stomach just sank ... I thought I had a 84 factory set a few years ago when I reorganized the collection, decided for myself that I didn’t, and ended up swapping the set out of the brown box. Tell me I didn’t light a few hundred bucks on fire?

  • lahmejoonlahmejoon Posts: 1,455 ✭✭✭

    @esquiresports said:
    This is how I used to display my set run. Went a little crazy. Bought the retail, hobby and HTA versions, as well as the Mantle insert sets (not pictured).

    Nice display!

  • Gemyanks10Gemyanks10 Posts: 1,091 ✭✭✭
    edited July 16, 2019 8:18PM

    @GreenSneakers said:

    The 1983-1984 ones came in just a plain brown box with a white sku sticker on the bottom

    What’s the premium for a set like that? My stomach just sank ... I thought I had a 84 factory set a few years ago when I reorganized the collection, decided for myself that I didn’t, and ended up swapping the set out of the brown box. Tell me I didn’t light a few hundred bucks on fire?

    They are trending up a little bit, 84 factory sets are a little north of 200.00 now. I have 2 and I believe I paid around 150.00 a couple years ago. I’m surprised they haven’t risen more as they don’t seem to pop up like they used to, but they are still out there. I busted one years ago not knowing any better and put the set into a binder that I still have. I bought a couple more just to put away a little while later as my thought process was they would probably dry up eventually. So far, they have dried up some, but can be had here and there. The problem is they aren’t as “pretty” as wax boxes and are dull to display as it’s just a brown box lol. I like them though and just put them in the closet to see what happens down the road. 1983 for me was the hardest to find as far as a clean box was concerned with no pencil or marker writing on it. Again, not as pretty as a wax box, but they were sold through department stores back then so it’s legit. They are 300.00-400.00 when I’ve tracked them...

    Always looking for OPC "tape intact" baseball wax boxes, and 1984 OPC baseball PSA 10's for my set. Please PM or email me if you have any available.
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