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Good Macro Lens for Canon Rebel T6? -- UPDATE: Lens Rec'd, Photos Posted

BustHalfBrianBustHalfBrian Posts: 4,119 ✭✭✭
edited February 22, 2019 11:43AM in U.S. Coin Forum

I’m having trouble getting sharp photos of coins smaller than a quarter. Are there any good macro lenses compatible with this inexpensive DSLR that can improve my results with small coins? Thanks

Lurking and learning since 2010. Full-time professional numismatist.

Comments

  • yspsalesyspsales Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I can PM you the contact info on a gentleman that just set me up with a copy stand, bellows, lighting, and lens for $600

    As a former semi professional wedding and sports photographer, I can vouch for this set up. Makes life sooooo much easier.

    BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out

  • illini420illini420 Posts: 11,466 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I've been using a Canon Rebel T4i for several years now... I use the Canon 100mm Macro 1:2.8 L-series lens with it and I am very happy with it. Paid around $750 for the lens, but I'm not sure you have to pay up for the L-series version.

    That said, it's more than just the camera/lens, a copy stand is pretty important, getting the settings right on your camera and lighting are all pretty important too. In other words, the camera/lens is about half of the way there, knowing how to use them is the other half.

    Read a copy of the Goodman book on Numismatic Photography if you haven't done so already.

  • BStrauss3BStrauss3 Posts: 3,111 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Canon, Sigma and Tamron make good to great macro lenses in the 100-110mm range. You will be happy with any of them. I use the 100mm to do full images down to 14mm trimes.

    -----Burton
    ANA 50 year/Life Member (now "Emeritus")
  • yosclimberyosclimber Posts: 4,572 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 16, 2019 10:22PM

    You can get the first model Canon EF 100m 1:2.8 macro lens used on ebay from sellers in Japan for around $120, including shipping.
    This is an AF lens, but non-USM. It was sold mostly in Japan, starting in 1990.
    That's what I did last year, and it works great with my Rebel T2i.
    I also have an extension tube and a good copy stand.
    I shoot half dimes.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF_100mm_lens

  • GluggoGluggo Posts: 3,566 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 17, 2019 12:08AM

    I have a T6i and Shoot with a 28 to 80 mm lens. Does decent but today I had to have more picked up both used Cannon lens, a EF 28 to 105 mm and a EF 28 to 135 mm good prices on EBay. The 105 mm was about 80 bucks out of Japan. And the 135 mm is about 140 bucks with shipping. I don’t know why I did it other than impulsive but they look promising.
    I did not really need it just wanted to have them.

    Not to mention I upgraded to Rmpsrpms system he sells should be here early next week. You should look at his system he has a link at the BST showing his systems he sells. $600 gets you all set up all you need is the camera and you have it! It’s labeled “ More coin systems available “

  • Josh32Josh32 Posts: 138 ✭✭✭

    You should try a microscope stand and bellows set up. Heres what @rmpsrpms system is capable of. I'm using a sony a6000 camera body and nikkor 75mm enlarging lens. I have no trouble photographing dimes all the way to ASEs with this set up. Adjustments are quick and easy and the fine focus adjustment on the microscope stand is great for smaller coins. I've gotten some pretty darn good results in just the couples weeks I've had it. I'm still experimenting with lighting which I find is the biggest challenge right now, especially with slabs.


  • GluggoGluggo Posts: 3,566 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Josh that looks really good at least to the untrained eye. Mind I ask how you get the black background?

    Are you using a program to finish the shot?

  • Josh32Josh32 Posts: 138 ✭✭✭

    @Gluggo said:
    Josh that looks really good at least to the untrained eye. Mind I ask how you get the black background?

    Are you using a program to finish the shot?

    I shoot in RAW and then take the images into Photoshop to make further adjustments. Then I take them into Illustrator to crop them out and apply a black background. There are many other free programs to use that can do this as well. I just use these cause I have them for school.

    @rmpsrpms also sells a transfer disk that has a black photographic material that blacks out the background for you if you want to go that route.

  • GluggoGluggo Posts: 3,566 ✭✭✭✭✭

    BusthalfBrian you can see there is a bit more than finding a lens. Josh has an Arsenal of tools he is using after he takes the photo. I myself do not have Photoshop due to cost as its a bit expensive but there are free programs. PhotoScape lets you crop the coin and its free. Point is if your like me after you get your lens you wont quite be happy after you take the shot. That’s why I ordered the system from rmpsrpms to get those professional looking shots. I am hoping I will be able to do half as good as Josh is doing. I bought hundreds and hundreds of $'s in equipment. Lights, Port Dark Rooms, cheap camera stand, Len’s , microscope's etc. I am hoping that this new system will do the trick. I have a few photo programs I will just have to learn to use them and learn the different lights. I am up in Alaska where its dark 18 hours a day so I don't get natural sunlight. So I have to produce the light to take the pics. Here is his site he gives you the lens to take the shot your just need the camera and you have it. You might decide to get one of those Len’s I recently bought but your will probably come back to this site in the end wondering should I?

    Here is the system he is sending me;
    http://www.macrocoins.com/example-system-9.html

    Here is his link on Buy Sell Trade BST
    https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1011699/more-coin-photo-systems-available#latest

  • Josh32Josh32 Posts: 138 ✭✭✭

    Cameras themselves can't do it all. My images are normally underexposed from the camera and it doesn't matter what metering mode I use. I always have to adjust exposure about a half stop. Heres an example.

  • RogerBRogerB Posts: 8,852 ✭✭✭✭✭

    All of the camera light meters assume an average 18% gray for the scene. This doesn't work for coins because they reflect more light than an average subject. This causes the camera to underexpose. Try using the camera's automatic bracketing function, or use the little exposure bias adjustment (often marked "Ex +/-") when taking coin photos. Note that circulated coins will often look OK with unaltered metering.

  • YQQYQQ Posts: 3,264 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I use a Tamron 90 mm Macro-F 2.8
    with a Canon body. I take images as small as 5 mm and they look good.
    I am happy with that setup, mounted permanently on a old enlarger stand.
    and also use ACDsee Sw. this SW is very reasonable and you can try it for 30 days.

    Today is the first day of the rest of my life
  • BryceMBryceM Posts: 11,722 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I agree with the 100mm Canon macro lens but I agree even more with those who state that the lens is just one part of a very big solution. In my opinion, nothing improved my photography more than a stable platform to shoot from. If you don’t start with a sharply-focused image nothing can save you.

  • illini420illini420 Posts: 11,466 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @BryceM said:
    I agree with the 100mm Canon macro lens but I agree even more with those who state that the lens is just one part of a very big solution. In my opinion, nothing improved my photography more than a stable platform to shoot from. If you don’t start with a sharply-focused image nothing can save you.

    Yes... for example, even on a professional copy stand that keeps the lens very stable, the 100mm lens is picking up so much detail that I need to turn off the air conditioning in the room when I am imaging coins; otherwise, when looking at live image from the tethered camera you can see a very small movement in the image because of the air moving in the room. It is also better to have your copy stand/camera set up on a surface separate from your computer as even the punching of keys and clicking of the mouse can cause movement that is picked up by the lens.

  • BustHalfBrianBustHalfBrian Posts: 4,119 ✭✭✭

    Thanks guys. I just ordered the Canon 100mm 2.8L lens. I will post some test photos once it arrives.

    Lurking and learning since 2010. Full-time professional numismatist.
  • crazyhounddogcrazyhounddog Posts: 13,776 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Here’s my setup. I had to replace the one that melted in my house fire. No, it not over kill. This is a very nice VERY ridged copystand with a 180mm Sigma macro lens. The lights are amazing 😉

    The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
  • BryceMBryceM Posts: 11,722 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 18, 2019 5:20PM

    Just for fun, I took this with a used Canon Rebel XSi that I picked up for $300. The lens is a 100mm Canon.

    image

    Here's the whole coin:

    image

  • crazyhounddogcrazyhounddog Posts: 13,776 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @BryceM said:
    Just for fun, I took this with a used Canon Rebel XSi that I picked up for $300. The lens is a 100mm Canon.

    image

    Here's the whole coin:

    image

    That’s impressive.

    The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
  • SwampboySwampboy Posts: 12,876 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @crazyhounddog said:
    Here’s my setup. I had to replace the one that melted in my house fire. No, it not over kill. This is a very nice VERY ridged copystand with a 180mm Sigma macro lens. The lights are amazing 😉

    Joe, are you shooting your buffs at an angle and then straightening them in processing?
    Just guessing here.

  • ldhairldhair Posts: 7,111 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I have been using a Sigma 150 for the last few years. It works really well.

    Larry

  • GluggoGluggo Posts: 3,566 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 20, 2019 7:42AM

    Well I got my new lens along with the whole set up. I have a Cannon 6Ti which is just a newer model of the OP camera. Works very easy glad I went this way. I don’t even know what type of lens it is. But it’s made to go from a small coin all the way up to a slab. Really easy to take a picture but when I have time will work on the snapping pictures.
    The is from Rmpsrpms work I just bought his system.

  • Josh32Josh32 Posts: 138 ✭✭✭

    Looks like a great set up!

  • GluggoGluggo Posts: 3,566 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 19, 2019 10:26PM

    Josh it’s a wonderful set up. So wonderful I have no idea how it works. I just know I can now take good pictures. I mean I have a bellows, I have lens but I could never make it work. I will keep learning about the camera, lens and the like. But you can only learn so much before you Run out of daylight or tire from disgust. I am a total novice but I keep trying.
    I did pick up 3 very nice macro lens this weekend, there is a good possibility I may never use them now.

  • BustHalfBrianBustHalfBrian Posts: 4,119 ✭✭✭

    I got the lens today. Here some quick pics I took, just using "intelligent auto" setting on the camera. I don't know exactly what setting it should be on. Aperture priority? The photos are coming out a little darker than I would like.




    Lurking and learning since 2010. Full-time professional numismatist.
  • SwampboySwampboy Posts: 12,876 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Nice work Brian.

    I love the Canon 100mm 2.8 Macro lens too. I use it with my 8 year old T2i, a good copy stand and two 75 watt bare bulb incandescents.

    I don't usually image bullion coins but I made an exception with this one.

  • Josh32Josh32 Posts: 138 ✭✭✭

    @BustHalfBrian said:
    I got the lens today. Here some quick pics I took, just using "intelligent auto" setting on the camera. I don't know exactly what setting it should be on. Aperture priority? The photos are coming out a little darker than I would like.

    Yes I would use aperture priority. You should also manually set the white balance if you haven't already. That is key for capturing accurate color; I struggled with that early on. You also need a good set of lights like the jansjo LEDs. The morgan looks really nice btw. Has some really nice detail.

  • GluggoGluggo Posts: 3,566 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 23, 2019 5:31PM

    @Josh32 said:

    Yes I would use aperture priority. You should also manually set the white balance if you haven't already. That is key for capturing accurate color; I struggled with that early on. You also need a good set of lights like the jansjo LEDs. The morgan looks really nice btw. Has some really nice detail.

    So when your setting your white balance is it just making sure the camera has the white balance turned on vs other types of light balances? Sorry if its a dumb question that is one thing I have not done yet messing with the light setting. This is my beginners raw shot.

    To the OP those are some nice looking shots!

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