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So what would I stand to lose by taking all of my coins out of the registry?
AllCoinsRule
Posts: 2,442 ✭✭✭✭
First, I am not looking for encouragement or anyone to tell me to stick with it. And of course I could always change my mind and register them again someday, but I would lose my 12 year history. Is that really no big deal whatsoever? Or would it be a mistake to throw away the chance at some top sets with a history of being built over many many years? Anything else I would lose by not having my coins registered? I don't think I ever get offered anything I need through the registry and I don't think people look at my sets anyway.
My reasons for quitting are...
a) I collect coins anyway, not registry points.
b) I'm sick of seeing my coins go up in pop so quickly (which has only been happening for a year or so).
c) I can't fill in some holes at all (as no way will I pay up for a top grade coin that's worse than my lower grade, which I crack out and resubmit only to see it go down in grade. And this is not rare, it was 5 for 5 that went down on one recent submission).
I'd prefer not to say which sets are mine in this thread.
My reasons for quitting are...
a) I collect coins anyway, not registry points.
b) I'm sick of seeing my coins go up in pop so quickly (which has only been happening for a year or so).
c) I can't fill in some holes at all (as no way will I pay up for a top grade coin that's worse than my lower grade, which I crack out and resubmit only to see it go down in grade. And this is not rare, it was 5 for 5 that went down on one recent submission).
I'd prefer not to say which sets are mine in this thread.
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Comments
I had completed my Merc set which cost a lot more than I had planned and I couldn't do it 100% in FB. There were 2 coins that were out my reach (about 15k per at the time....considering I was already in for 100k+) but it was still great.
At the time I retired it it was ranked 7th. It is now 13th. I can go back to look at it as I had all pictures, etc. I am now building a couple of other sets and I can give a rats bum whether I'm number 1 or 101....I look at it as something for me, not something for my ego.
If you can move past Pop numbers and playing the crack game, you should get the joy back and use the registry as a great tool to showcase your collection (and a cool message board as well).
WS
I would say the same thing as WS - you loose visibility and records........ I say don't do crack
Ken
My Washington Type B/C Set
My Complete PROOF Lincoln Cent with Major Varieties(1909-2015)Set Registry
As far as having them change grades on coins already slabbed I know they do it all the time (not talking about crackout re-subs or re-grade in holders). I have had them change grades on my coins a couple of times at least. Usually the rule of thumb is to take the coins out of the building and then send them in to fix. I have made this mistake twice now and will not make it again. It seems so unfathomable that they would do it yet it happens. I had 2 ms 69 state quarters pop 1/0 and when they were in sms holders I merely asked them to put them in the correct holders from the pcgs lobby after they were in hand and they came back ms 68. They would not budge because of the take it out of the building rule and they accused me of being greedy which i find to be humorous. Another time i had about 10 close AM Lincolns that were all 69DC and when i had them add the close AM they changed the grades to 66, 67 and 68dc. pretty funny also.
I know you are avoiding the main issue of why you want to pull your sets in this thread to avoid being kicked off the boards.
As far as variance in cracking out coins and re-subbing. I don't do a lot of sumbmissions at PCGS these days due to grade variance. Most of the top graded coins for moderns are either a product of an extended overgrading period from around 2000-2006 or possibly 2007. There was significant pressure to keep the grades high to maximize revenues and to bring the company public from how i remember. Then there was big change and they graded things down 1 grade from what they were doing which led my to submit more coins at NGC. Now curriously they grade things down a grade at NGC finally and it makes them non-profitable as well. If you talk to the administration at the companies they swear up and down they just call the grades as they see it and don't know who is sending in the coins but I know for a fact this is inaccurate sometimes.
So, I would just roll with it and keep questionning why they do what they do. One thing I have noticed they are pretty darn good on the average it's just they let some dogs through occasionally and it makes us all think our other coins deserve the same grade when comparing. one last thing, don't expect your coins to be graded like the pictured coinfacts examples as most of those were a product of the extended overgrading period. Full bands, full steps would never make it in many of those pictures nowdays.
Jaime, I agree with mark as far as not pulling your sets. I think you evaluated your pop 1/0 and top pop coins incorrectly. I know you're frustrated with PCGS
and the recent creation of so many new clad dime pop 1/0 grades. But you have to understand this is not a factor of PCGS suddenly over grading or up-grading
bad coins. These dimes have always existed and were always some of the best clad dimes in existence. They were just sitting across the street in NGC holders.
Mark should be able to attest to this fact. He made the bulk of them at NGC some 5+ years ago. Myself and a collector I was working with at the time recognized just
how nice these dimes were and bought up the bulk of them from Mark. These dimes are still the best clad dimes I have ever seen and now PCGS agrees and
they are being put in their holders, and will continue to be. You have to use a % of how many coins of such & such a date and grade are also in NGC holders
when determining a population for the grade and date. The PCGS 1970P MS65FB dime was a pop 1/0. But, when checking the NGC pop report there were 3 graded MS66FT.
You have to figure at some point of time at least 1 will cross and 1 did. Another example I just placed the 1948S & 1951P PCGS MS68FB dimes. Both are pop 1/0 at
PCGS. But, I don't consider the 48S pop 1/0 since there are 4 graded at NGC MS68*FT. I have to figure 1 or 2 at some point of time will cross. NGC has graded
0 51P's at 68FT. Now that's a pop 1/0.
I know you're not just talking about dimes but you say the pops have gone up so quickly over the last year. I happen to know that that's the same time frame these
wonderful NGC dimes (both silver and clad) have been trickling their way over to PCGS. The grades PCGS is putting on these are IMHO 100% correct. If anything
there is still room for up-grading.
Mark has one of the best eyes in the business for moderns. I'm sure he put in countless hours looking through hundreds if not thousands of dimes before picking
these out and submitting to NGC. I tip my hat to you Mark, you're the man.
Jamie, If your not collecting for registry points then don't discount looking at and adding NGC coins to your collection. You have a great eye you will know what
a nice properly graded coin looks like, even in an NGC holder.
Have fun collecting
It's really strange and interesting to watch the coins go cold at these companies. I would love to have a recording in the bulk room when they look at the pops and decide to rotate in a "ball-buster" to slow the flow.......
I have even mentioned here before that my personal quest for a PERFECT Mint State Clad quarter set is officially over in light of some recent coins that got graded in pop top holders. Last I looked, I needed just (2) coins to have a perfect clad Mint State quarter set, but I let one of those (2) coins go at public auction (for a cheap price as well) as I felt my undergraded coin was far nicer. You just need to "draw the line" and live with your decision.
Does it trouble me that a couple coins like that exist out there in my series of choice ... absolutely.
Would I consider removing my registry set as a result of it .. heck no.
As I told Jaime a number of times, this is essentially a "ratings game". When gradeflation kicks in, you can rest assured I have/will be submitting all sorts of coins to achieve the new grade levels ... case in point is my 1969-P Washington Quarter in PCGS-MS67+. When an MS67 was slabbed recently that did not appear nearly as strong as the one in my set (moving the pop from 3 to 4 in MS67 - a pop that had not changed in a long, long time), I submitted my spectacular MS67 specimen and it upgraded to MS67+ (pop 1/0) the first time through.
Wondercoin
<< <i>Mark has one of the best eyes in the business for moderns. I'm sure he put in countless hours looking through hundreds if not thousands of dimes before picking
these out and submitting to NGC. I tip my hat to you Mark, you're the man.
Jamie, If your not collecting for registry points then don't discount looking at and adding NGC coins to your collection. >>
Jaime, we go back a few years, and I read what you wrote about deleting your set. I know you are very passionate about collecting as I can see it in your posts over the years. Its about collecting the best coins possible not the registry game with you. I left for 5+ years and I needed a big long break. I was gone for so long, I missed the + grades, The Mint stopping the S.F. sets, the death of this forum, the new holders, and about 7,500 of Wondercoins posts!
If you need a break, and it sounds like you do, my best advice would be to NOT DELIST your sets, but close them down. Take them all off line where no-one can see them and just moth ball the coins and sets for a while. Take a vacation from PCGS and the Registry. When I was gone, I never even looked at even 1 coin for the entire time. When you decide to come back whenever that time is, you can start those sets up by clicking a button and making them public again and never losing your seniority, your 12 years, your history, your stats, and of that stuff. PCGS and coins will always be here.
Now the reason I quoted Nick's post about Mark's "Best eye in the business".
I do a lot of research. Mark said he went through (10,000) 1975 mint sets. I noticed he listed a 1968-D and 1975-D for sale on eBay. I took the cert #'s and did a cert # search on PCGS to see what else he graded. I knew he made a 1968-D MS68FB and also 2 of the MS67+FB's. Well I bought 1 and I must say that this is one of the sickest looking dimes I have ever seen. The fields are mirror proof like and so shiny I could floss my teeth in them. The bands are 100% all there and it is just an amazing dime. I just wish I could find a dime that looks like this for every year. I also bought a 1968 DDO in an NGC holder. Taking some of Nick's advice to look at other third party holders more closely other then just PCGS.
Mark, Keep sending those dimes in to PCGS, as I am officially back.
Later, Paul.
Later, Paul.
It looks like jaime is the only one taking a break or maybe working longer hours to pay for his coin bill?
I also sent a couple coins through the secure plus and graded them one 1975-d 66fb went up a full grade and 1 or 2 were 66+
There will be more!
I find i get better treatment if i stay away from bulk as they see me coming for sure...............
<< <i>Stooge another great post dude!
It looks like Jaime is the only one taking a break or maybe working longer hours to pay for his coin bill?
I also sent a couple coins through the secure plus and graded them one 1975-d 66fb went up a full grade and 1 or 2 were 66+
There will be more!
I find i get better treatment if i stay away from bulk as they see me coming for sure............... >>
I think I was working or something happened where I wasn't around for that 1975-D MS66+FB secure holder Roosie. Some flipper bought it for either $114+ or $93, and listed it immediately for Moon money and it didn't sell. Again, I do my research and didn't bite, then he listed the same Date-n-type dime for $0.99 on a 7 day listing and I knew it was coming to Rockford! Bought it for $85 delivered. So our flipper took a small bath!
Mark, those 2 dimes are simply amazing + secure holdered dimes.
Later, Paul.
Later, Paul.
Also, glad you are back Paul.
I also agree with the posters above regarding the Registry. It's great to show off your coins no matter what level you collect at.
I can certainy appreciate your feelings, especially points b and c.
I've had several top sets for almost 10 years. If you play the competitive side of the Registry game, you better be prepared to always have your checkbook ready to stay on top, as you know. Plus, you have to be prepared to stomach the feeling you get when you see the vlaue of your pop 1 coin go down when a new one emerges (i.e. thanks Nick and Mark). I'm not sure a single set of mine has actually appreciated in value for that reason over that period of time. Last time I checked they hadn't.
I've considered selling my sets the past two years, much for the same reasons you mentioned, Jaime, but the collector side of me makes me pause. The competitive side also makes me pause as I don't want to throw in the towel. I like being on top. That aspect of it is like Mitch said, it's a "ratings game," and to play that game can be costly, including the resubmit game like Mitch eluded to when the timing is right.
RR
I was looking through my raw Roosevelt dimes that have been sitting around and I feel that I have several dozen if not more 67FB's sitting in several different years. I would venture on a good grading day, possibly an 8FB or 2 if I was fortunate enough.
I will be obtaning the PCGS membership probably tomorrow.
Will I be starting an active public set Jaime. I'm not interested. Been there, done that.
Paul.
Later, Paul.
You are too good at this stuff and care too much to not take advantage of this hobby to it's fullest extent. I would make that website.
<< <i>Like Mark said, and I already knew, no one will really notice or care either way. >>
Jaime, you don't realize this, but I have looked at your set dozens of times. Even made a comment on it if I remember correctly.
Other collectors (Future collectors) need something to have a guide as they build their sets. They just cannot look at the #1 set every time and shoot for that, they have to be able to hit different levels as they achieve their final set ratings. It is like climbing a staircase. You cannot just leap to the top. As you build your set in a certain category, it becomes necessary to reach certain levels as goals, and if your set is there, then that is something to shoot for.
Your Roosevelt Dime set is un-freaking-real. One of the better ones I have ever seen. All MS67/MS67FB or higher is certainly amazing. Please don't dismantle it. I've seen to many die by the wayside.
Paul.
Later, Paul.
rainbowroosie April 1, 2003
While I've completed two modern proof sets for my kids, this dime completed my first modern mint set project -- a 1969 Mint Set. -- something that was a little tougher to do than I thought it would be. I have no interest in chasing the top spot, as it would cost me a lot of heartache and even more money to have my set rating go from 66.20 to 66.40, basically meaningless, but just to move up one spot. No thanks...
We can enjoy the sets we've built and take pride in them and we don't have to spend a fortune on having every coin be a top pop...at least I don't.
Any how, thanks for selling me this dime and allowing me to be the curator of it...at least for a little while