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Klinger83, Apple383, Greg Morris. Who are the best ebay set breakers?

Those sellers seem to be the heavy hitters who break sets on the Bay. Anyone else? Who's the best of the Big Three? Is there a 4th out there so we could call them the Fab Four?
The Crisser
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Comments

  • itzagoneritzagoner Posts: 8,753 ✭✭
    Meat Loaf (the singer) composed a tune which might be rather appropriate about now.
  • 54topps54topps Posts: 1,144 ✭✭✭
    Greg Morris is the best IMO. Very accurately graded. I have bought from Apple383 before without any issues.
  • itzagoneritzagoner Posts: 8,753 ✭✭
    just got a e-mail this minute from another reputable seller, Steve Novella. always seems to have high quality stuff for sale. there ya go.
  • PaulMaulPaulMaul Posts: 4,679 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Apple383 is fantastic, one of the most efficient eBay sellers I've dealt with.
  • billwaltonsbeardbillwaltonsbeard Posts: 3,748 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Meat Loaf (the singer) composed a tune which might be rather appropriate about now. >>



    Paradise By The Dashboard Light? No judging here, it's cool......
  • LarkinCollectorLarkinCollector Posts: 8,975 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Meat Loaf (the singer) composed a tune which might be rather appropriate about now. >>


    Think I know that tune image
  • DodgerfanjohnDodgerfanjohn Posts: 489 ✭✭✭
    Klinger is fine also, but one full grade overgraded. It's not like old school grading, but you def shouldn't pay psa 7 prices for anything he lists as nrmt.
  • dennis07dennis07 Posts: 1,842 ✭✭✭
    "Klinger is fine also, but one full grade overgraded. It's not like old school grading, but you def shouldn't pay psa 7 prices for anything he lists as nrmt."

    With my experiences I agree with the above statement.
    Collecting 1970 Topps baseball
  • gemintgemint Posts: 6,064 ✭✭✭✭✭
    PWCC got some strong prices on a recent graded 1969 set break.
  • I have found Klinger's raw grading to be fairly accurate, although less so than Greg Morris. Agree that Steve Novella is good. I'd rank them Morris, Novella, Klinger.

    The purchases I have made from Apple383 so far have all been graded cards, so I can't give an opinion there.
    'Sir, I realize it's been difficult for you to sleep at night without your EX/MT 1977 Topps Tom Seaver, but I swear to you that you'll get it safe and sound.'
    -CDs Nuts, 1/20/14

    *1956 Topps baseball- 97.4% complete, 7.24 GPA
    *Clemente basic set: 85.0% complete, 7.89 GPA
  • I've bought from all three with no issues, other than I agree, Klinger seems to over grade by about a grade. IMO Greg Morris is head and shoulders above the rest. Accurate grading, very responsive, reasonable shipping. But then I've bought far more from Greg Morris than the other two. IMO Morris is by far the best on Ebay.
  • itzagoneritzagoner Posts: 8,753 ✭✭


    << <i>PWCC got some strong prices on a recent graded 1969 set break. >>



    yeah. where are some more of these commons? Davenport, Britton & Hannon. image

    sounds like the name of a law firm.
  • CSCCSC Posts: 100


    << <i>"Klinger is fine also, but one full grade overgraded. It's not like old school grading, but you def shouldn't pay psa 7 prices for anything he lists as nrmt."

    With my experiences I agree with the above statement. >>



    I also agree with this.
  • I won't waste my time with the over graders.

    Greg Morris is the best.
  • jay0791jay0791 Posts: 3,508 ✭✭✭✭
    Greg Morris grades correctly.

    Klinger 383 does get some nice cards. Have bought...but only psa graded.
    Some of his raw auctions are way overgraded. Recently noticed an auction description of nmt and card is showing a crease.
    Collecting PSA... FB,BK,HK,and BB HOF RC sets
    1948-76 Topps FB Sets
    FB & BB HOF Player sets
    1948-1993 NY Yankee Team Sets
  • SOMSOM Posts: 1,555 ✭✭✭
    I'm not sure if theses guys run auctions, because they break a lot of sets and make the cards all BINs. But, if you don't mind paying a bit more to be certain of the grades, the Locker Room does a good job on singles. I buy a lot from those guys.

    Nick
  • PSASAPPSASAP Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭
    I've sent Greg Morris a raw set, and I received more when he did a set break than I would have gotten by selling the entire set, so I was pleased with the results.
  • belzbelz Posts: 1,217 ✭✭✭
    I've had very litte success with Klinger...A few months ago I bought dead centered 59's and 60's that he claimed were 8's. I was so disappointed to get mainly 6's and a couple 4's...I have no reason to ousts the guy on here, but that is truly my experience. I plan to resub as the cards do look absolutely beautiful and I'm wondering if PSA was just super sensitive when I subbed at the National last year. I paid top dollar as well...live and learn.
    "Wots Uh The Deal" by Pink Floyd
  • lahmejoonlahmejoon Posts: 1,666 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I have found Klinger's raw grading to be fairly accurate, although less so than Greg Morris. Agree that Steve Novella is good. I'd rank them Morris, Novella, Klinger. >>



    I agree with the rank. Klinger's raw grades are definitely a little over-inflated. I've had great experiences with Apple and Morris.
  • Mickey71Mickey71 Posts: 4,224 ✭✭✭✭
    I think I saw a Klinger 1975 Aaron listed as NM-MT +........ahhhh NOT. image
  • itzagoneritzagoner Posts: 8,753 ✭✭
    jeez. any more light sabers and we might as well turn this place over to the space geeks.
  • Mickey71Mickey71 Posts: 4,224 ✭✭✭✭
    I had Yoda from the beginning. I should have him retired. I think someone else had Yoda when I first got here. We could have a vote to see who keeps Yoda.image
  • DodgerfanjohnDodgerfanjohn Posts: 489 ✭✭✭
    I still don't understand guys who bid graded prices(esp premium prices) for raw cards.

    Makes no sense at all.
  • itzagoneritzagoner Posts: 8,753 ✭✭


    << <i>Has ANYONE consigned to these guys? Greg Morris seems to be a nickel and dimer, and I have concerns about one of the others. >>



    the answer to your question is an emphatic "yes". couldn't be more satisfied with how Greg carried out our arrangements last year. moved a lot of product, got paid well & quickly.

    my suggestion would be to put your experiences behind your criticism, otherwise best to consider how your current behavior might affect your future relationships. spreading BS about people without facts to support your contentions is a dangerous thing.
  • itzagoneritzagoner Posts: 8,753 ✭✭
    so calling him a "nickel and dimer" is just a term of endearment. ok.
  • itzagoneritzagoner Posts: 8,753 ✭✭
    gosh. really? why? [eyeroll]
  • PaulMaulPaulMaul Posts: 4,679 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Can't imagine what's going on. I've dealt with him repeatedly and found him to be nothing but professional and responsive.
  • Is one of those bbuckner?
  • PaulMaulPaulMaul Posts: 4,679 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Is one of those bbuckner? >>



    Apple383 is bbuckner.


  • << <i>I still don't understand guys who bid graded prices(esp premium prices) for raw cards.

    Makes no sense at all. >>




    I still don't understand guys who somehow think they have a higher quality card because its in a slab with some hourly employee's label on it.

    I buy cards, not labels. And I like em RAW. I even break many of the out of those silly rattle trap cases.
  • BobHBobH Posts: 206 ✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>I still don't understand guys who bid graded prices(esp premium prices) for raw cards.

    Makes no sense at all. >>




    I still don't understand guys who somehow think they have a higher quality card because its in a slab with some hourly employee's label on it.

    I buy cards, not labels. And I like em RAW. I even break many of the out of those silly rattle trap cases. >>



    I've been known to break what i thought was a under graded vintage card out of it's holder. What kinds of cards and price range will you break out?
    Interested in 60's and 70's psa and raw star and hof cards
  • I do retain a few slabbed cards, but I will break out virtually any card I need for my sets if I can't find a comparable high grade Raw.

    Can't wait to free the Danny White for my 77 Set!

    imageimage

    Cards are not a monetary investment to me. I buy cards for the nostalgic enjoyment they provide to me. Im not concerned with the precieved "Value".

    If breaking the card out devalues that precieved "Value" so be it. Im not after the label or the slab or any speculative money profit. Im after the CARD,
    there's no pyhisical change or difference in the CARD itself, weather it be in or out of the slab.

    Other factors such as storage and being able to enjoy your sets and cards more easily are also contributing factors as to why I prefer to collect Raw.
    I also don't like the "protection" any of the TPG slabs offer. The poor design makes them more likely to damage the card in the long term IMHO.


    If this makes me the odd man out in todays "For profit" hobby, Im fine with that. Im not concerned weather or not I ever get one red dime back for any of these cards, thats not why I have them.


    Here's a freakin KILLER card I got From Greg Morris. WHY, would one pay a premium for a raw card? The answer is simple: Because the ones in comparable TPGing slabs were not as nice and
    Greg conseratively undergraded this beauty IMHO.

    image

    How bout this Jim Hart Rookie. A freakin Flawless Mint Beauty! Im sure its not as nice as those in slabs with that fancy label on it though.

    image

    We all have our own preferences to how and why we collect and thats what makes the hobby great. I can certainly see and understand the allure of collecting graded cards and sets and
    have enjoyed building a couple of graded sets myself, but the real value to me personally always seems to take me back to the collecting days of my youth and what the cards meant to me then
    in their purest form.

    Grading Fees............................ $200+
    Shipping & Insurance..................$30
    Resub/Review Fees...................$200+

    The Touch, Feel and Smell of a Raw card.............. Priceless





  • << <i>Other factors such as storage and being able to enjoy your sets and cards more easily are also contributing factors as to why I prefer to collect Raw.
    I also don't like the "protection" any of the TPG slabs offer. The poor design makes them more likely to damage the card in the long term IMHO. >>


    Interesting. You have hit on 2 reasons I prefer graded. Now granted, I still have lil rugrats runnin aroung, so it might not be the same for
    everybody of course. But +1 for storage and +1000 for protection (long term, I dunno, I guess time will tell).

    I remember when my youngest daughter and i were goofin around with some graded cards (stuff I had from buying lots that I didnt want).
    We(she) were building roads, houses, whatever. Trying to teach her to be careful with them (responsibility), and at the same time, have
    some fun. Boy, she would try to be careful, but every so often, oops, one fell off the coffee table. No dinged corners, no creases, etc.

    Now granted, if I didnt have the graded slabs, we would of just played with junk cards. But, them slabbed cards are what she seen dad
    playing with so Im sure it meant more to her. Man, shes 11 now, where did the time goimage (She doesnt give 2 poops about the cards anymore).

    Anyways, enough of that. I dont know the first thing about any of the set-breakers. I havent bought anything raw off of e-bay in several
    years. Heck, I dont think ive bought anything card related off there in maybe a year or better(but dont quote me on that) image
    I dont wanna grow up, Im a Toys-R-Us kid!
  • BobHBobH Posts: 206 ✭✭




    .
    .



    We all have our own preferences to how and why we collect and thats what makes the hobby great. I can certainly see and understand the allure of collecting graded cards and sets and
    have enjoyed building a couple of graded sets myself, but the real value to me personally always seems to take me back to the collecting days of my youth and what the cards meant to me then
    in their purest form.

    Grading Fees............................ $200+
    Shipping & Insurance..................$30
    Resub/Review Fees...................$200+

    The Touch, Feel and Smell of a Raw card.............. Priceless >>

    Interested in 60's and 70's psa and raw star and hof cards
  • BobHBobH Posts: 206 ✭✭
    Pressed the wrong button
    Thanks for the reply and pictures.I also have a preference for the raw cards. I get alot of enjoyment searching for a great raw vintage card but also search for those undergraded PSA cards to crack out . Someday I may want to sell my collection so I understand cracking cards out of their holder may lower the value. At what price do you feel its unwise to crack a graded card out of it's holder?
    Interested in 60's and 70's psa and raw star and hof cards
  • originalisbestoriginalisbest Posts: 5,911 ✭✭✭✭
    As with anything graded, coin, card, comic or even a slabbed Star Wars figure, it's entirely up to the owner whether they wish to break it out and store it in their collection in a way that pleases them.

    My personal opinion, it makes sense to not bust out a collectible if it's a condition-sensitive issue, let's say, a PSA 9 vintage card that is worth multiples more than a PSA 8 of the same. You break it out and you take the chance that you may not be able to get it into a 9 holder again -- and thus recoup your money, if you wish to sell in the future. Yep, if the money matters not one iota to you, this is a moot point. But at some point, money matters to most people, at least a little.

    If I were heck-bent on cracking cards for my collection, I'd focus on cracking cards that looked very nice for their grades, but weren't supergrades. For vintage, let's say, 6s and 7s, vs. 8s and 9s.

    MOO, and YMMV. image


  • << <i>Pressed the wrong button
    Thanks for the reply and pictures.I also have a preference for the raw cards. I get alot of enjoyment searching for a great raw vintage card but also search for those undergraded PSA cards to crack out . Someday I may want to sell my collection so I understand cracking cards out of their holder may lower the value. At what price do you feel its unwise to crack a graded card out of it's holder? >>




    Obviously I wouldn't crack out a High Grade Mantle, Ruth etc.. But then again I don't collect those cards. I collect high grade 60's and 70's Football and while I have keep a few Key cards intacted theres not much I wouldn't be comfortable cracking. Here are some cards I have cracked for my sets:

    imageimageimage
    ALL PSA/SGC 9's


    imageimageimage
    All PSA/SGC 8's

    My 70 Topps Set has over 60 crackouts in it including this PSA 10

    image


    Cracked both these for my 57 Set. Care to guess the grades?

    image
    image


    68 crackouts High End PSA 8's

    image
    image


    Cracked Virtually a whole set of these.

    imageimageimage
    image
    image

    More High Grade Crack Outs?

    imageimage

    Just getting ready to bust out this awesome Danny White Rookie next!

    image

    To Be fair I have a 72 FB set all Graded, as well as working on a Graded 55 All American set. I do retain a Mint 9 Walter Payton in my 76 Set.

    But Yes, there is just about nothing I won't break out in the area's I collect. If my children or spouse want to do the leg work for anything these sets might be worth thats up to them. Otherwise they can pitch them all in the trash or better yet bury them with me when Im dead and gone.

    Their Financial Future has been secured by other responsible means and is in noway dependant on any speculative value on the silly little hobby Ive enjoyed from my youth until now.

    I always catch a lot of flack about why I collect this way, but thats ok, Its MY collection and I can do with it what I want.

    Take Care Guys!




  • goraidersgoraiders Posts: 2,158 ✭✭✭

    Always look forward to Johns post and raw card pickups cause I know
    Im about to be in for a Wow moment.Love the 68s,man what a great looking set.

    I like the casual mention of the lil 72 set graded you have,its only the #1 set not only
    in the registry but theeye test as well.

    Im guessing the Starr is a 7.5/8 crackout?? If I won John
    just send it my wayimage
    J.R.
    Needs'
    1972 Football-9's high#'s
    1965 Football-8's
    1958 Topps FB-7-8
  • PaulMaulPaulMaul Posts: 4,679 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>
    I like the casual mention of the lil 72 set graded you have,its only the #1 set not only
    in the registry but the eye test as well.

    >>



    Being #1 on the registry while preserving the eye test is extremely difficult. There are so many registry collectors who will take the highest graded flip no matter what, that competing with that is too much for me. I feel my wacky sets are excellent with the eye test as well, though I will never be at the top of the registry.
  • BobHBobH Posts: 206 ✭✭

    If I were heck-bent on cracking cards for my collection, I'd focus on cracking cards that looked very nice for their grades, but weren't supergrades. For vintage, let's say, 6s and 7s, vs. 8s

    Yeah that's about where I'm at. I really enjoy finding a older vintage 5 or 6 that's centered with nice corners that may have a surface dimple or two.They just look better in a plastic card saver. imho.
    Corncobb's pile of plastic is awesome and so neat. My pile is usually small pieces of plastic all over the place. I hear about it when my wife steps on a small morsel of hard plastic.
    Interested in 60's and 70's psa and raw star and hof cards


  • << <i>So now that Jeff Kling passed away, who's picking up the slack? I can't see Greg Morris doing anymore than he already does, so is it apple383? Or is he doing anything at all? >>



    Who knows?


  • << <i>

    << <i>So now that Jeff Kling passed away, who's picking up the slack? I can't see Greg Morris doing anymore than he already does, so is it apple383? Or is he doing anything at all? >>



    Who knows? >>



    Go ahead and give it a try, Sean.
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